We flew from Sydney to Christchurch in New Zealand, where we had a 3-hour stop-over before we flew on to Rarotonga (usually called "Raro"). Raro is the only international airport in the Cook Islands, which is a group of about 15 islands (quite spread out, actually) which are separated into two groups, the northern group and the southern group. Raro is in the southern group, as is Aitutaki, our ultimate destination.
We arrived in Raro at 1 in the morning and we were met with flower leis and a string band - it was all lovely but a bit much for a tired group of people arriving in the middle of the night! A van picked us up and transferred us to the hotel, but we didn't get to sleep until well after 2:00 am and had to be up and at the airport for a 10:00 departure the next morning. We got to the airport and discovered that our flight didn't actually leave until the next morning at 10:00 am (an error was made due to us arriving in the middle of the night). Our travel agent quickly sorted out a nice hotel for us to spend the extra day in on Rarotonga, although unfortunately it was raining most of the day. The good bit is that even when it's raining, it's not so bad because the rain is nice and warm and you can still go snorkeling or swimming or even for a walk!
The next day we caught our flight to Aitutaki. It is an achingly, unspeakably beautiful island. I think it must be one of the last relatively unspoiled holiday spots on earth. The lagoon and ocean surrounding are impossible colours of blue and the water is crystal clear. The island is surrounded by a reef so the beaches and the lagoon are easy to swim in and the water is a perfect temperature to cool off after sitting or playing in the sun. There are a number of nice beaches, but not tons of sand, as there is a lot of coral and shells. Water shoes or socks are a very good idea! There is plenty of good snorkeling and diving. The island itself is small and there are only about 1,000 residents. The main industry (and about the only "export") is tourism but there are no “chains” (ie Holiday Inn, Macdonalds, etc.). Everything is easygoing and relaxed. You can do the island in a day with a car - it's not that big!
The resort we were at, Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa, was on it's own island separated by a narrow channel from the mainland. A boat plied the channel taking guest, staff and supplies back and forth for the 3-minute trip. The resort was on a prime piece of land but poorly run.
We spent most of the week just lying in the hammock or on the sunbeds, both of which were a few steps away from the lagoon and just outside our bungalow. It was never less than 27 degrees Celsius during the day and cooled off a bit at night. When we were bored, we would wander down to the activity hut and chat with the girls there, Mea and Tena, who were both islanders, or participate in one of the activities like climbing coconut trees or tie-dying sarongs. We went out in the outrigger canoe for an afternoon (and managed to tip it!) and swam in the lagoon at least once a day.
The resort had an Island Night with dancing and singing and drumming, and a Fire Dancing night with a BBQ supper. When there wasn’t a special evening at the resort, we would go across the channel to a restaurant called The Boat Shed, which had lovely food that was much cheaper than at the resort.
As part of our package at the resort, we had the use of a car for a day. We drove around and looked at some of the other resorts, specifically Etu Moana, which is a beautiful place run by a Canadian couple. We went off into the bush and found some marae, which are the stone ruins of traditional meeting places, and we went up to the highest point on the island, 215 metres above sea level, and watched the sunset. The people were so lovely and friendly and the pace of life was so nice and relaxed.
Our last night at the resort there was a group trip in the evening to catch some of the island nightlife. We were curious about what could possible be going down with so few people so we, along with another couple from Calgary we met, Richard and Xenia, went along with Mea and Tena. They took us first to a men only club called The Rainforest. We were allowed in as visitors and when we got there, we found a bunch of men all sitting outside drinking homebrew and singing with an impromptu string band (two guitars, two banjos and a washtub bass). The islanders are very musical and it was lovely. They welcomed us and shared their homebrew (pretty strong but not undrinkable) and sang a number of songs for us. We felt very privileged to be allowed this glimpse into traditional island life. After over an hour there, we went to the Sport Fishing Club, but it was very quite, so went across the street to the Blue Nun. Barry and I had been there during the day when we had the car, and it is just a somewhat grotty bar that ships crews and locals go to for a cold drink during the day. At night on the weekends, however, there’s a DJ and lights and it turns into a nightclub, although it was more like a house party since everyone knew everyone! It was a great atmosphere – not predatory and competitive like a city nightclub, but friendly and fun and joyful. We danced with everyone – it was the best night out in a long time!
The next day (our last L), we went snorkeling with Fred from Matriki Tours. He is a Canadian and has been on the island for about a year. He took us to some great reef and volcanic beds beyond the reef in the open ocean, and to some other reefs in the lagoon. He packed us a picnic lunch, which we had on One Foot Island. Richard and Xenia came with us as well. It was a perfect end to our stay! The snorkeling was fantastic – like swimming through a saltwater fish tank. We all got a bit burned and Richard was a little the worse for wear from the night before, but it was a great day!
Sunday, 26 October 2008
Australia Part II
Well, my friends, we have come to the end of our journey. Sorry for the long delay in blogging, but internet access in the Cooks was expensive and slow so we just didn't bother. We are currently at LA airport waiting for our connecting flight to Calgary.
So, we left off in Australia...
We went to Bondi beach on Wednesday for the Sculptures by the Sea, and it was awesome! There were some very cool sculptures and Bondi is a gorgeous beach. Uncle Jac had to go to work so he left us there and we walked a good part of the way back through mostly residential areas. It was quite an interesting walk. Dinner that night with Philip and Mike was fantastic. They have a great place on a small inlet with a beautiful view. It was a fun night. Mike is an architect and spent a lot of time in Brunei so we had lots to talk about.
The next day the three of us drove out of Sydney a bit to a beach called Palm Beach. It was a great beach and as it was a weekday there were hardly any people there. The drive was lovely as well. We chilled out on the beach while Uncle Jac hiked up to a nearby lighthouse. We grabbed a bite to each there before heading back into Sydney. We had enough time for Barry and I to take a quick walk through Jac's neighbourhood one last time and shower and change before heading to John and Maria's for supper. They treated us to a Greek feast, with every kind of meat imaginable! Barry was in heaven!!! It was all very, very good and we ate tons and had a good time with them. They are lots of fun!
The next morning it was off to the Cook Islands - a week in the sun!
So, we left off in Australia...
We went to Bondi beach on Wednesday for the Sculptures by the Sea, and it was awesome! There were some very cool sculptures and Bondi is a gorgeous beach. Uncle Jac had to go to work so he left us there and we walked a good part of the way back through mostly residential areas. It was quite an interesting walk. Dinner that night with Philip and Mike was fantastic. They have a great place on a small inlet with a beautiful view. It was a fun night. Mike is an architect and spent a lot of time in Brunei so we had lots to talk about.
The next day the three of us drove out of Sydney a bit to a beach called Palm Beach. It was a great beach and as it was a weekday there were hardly any people there. The drive was lovely as well. We chilled out on the beach while Uncle Jac hiked up to a nearby lighthouse. We grabbed a bite to each there before heading back into Sydney. We had enough time for Barry and I to take a quick walk through Jac's neighbourhood one last time and shower and change before heading to John and Maria's for supper. They treated us to a Greek feast, with every kind of meat imaginable! Barry was in heaven!!! It was all very, very good and we ate tons and had a good time with them. They are lots of fun!
The next morning it was off to the Cook Islands - a week in the sun!
Tuesday, 14 October 2008
Australia Part 1
Christine:
We arrived in Sydney, Australia almost a week ago now, and are heading out this Friday.
Uncle Jac picked us up from the airport last Friday after another great flight on Singapore Airlines. On Saturday, we headed up into the Blue Mountains for one night. We visited a friend of Uncle Jac’s called Jules, who has a beautiful little house in a village in the mountains and is tons of fun. Then we went for a short hike until we decided we had descended far enough. What goes down must come back up, so we did and were glad we hadn’t gone any further down! Then we checked into our hotel, which was a lovely old historic hotel that had undergone many facelifts. The latest was lovely, but only a portion of the hotel was actually open. We went through the unused portion of the hotel and found lovely Art Deco spaces going to waste, along with a pool complete with a dolphin fountain! It was all so lovely and so wasted! We met Jules for high tea, which was extended to include a bottle of wine when it started raining, thus preventing us leaving. It stopped in time for us to head back to the hotel and get changed so we could go out for dinner at Darley’s, an absolutely fabulous restaurant with exquisite food. We ended up with a private room (through a series of fortunate events) and were served by the executive chef. We had dinner with another friend of Jac’s, Gary, and it was a great evening overall.
The next day, Sunday, we stopped by the Three Sisters viewpoint and then headed back to Sydney, where Uncle Jac was having a cocktail party in our honour (also in celebration of his 10 years lecturing at Macquarie University) in the afternoon. We did a blitz shop for the food and got it all prepared and set up in time for the guests, who started arriving shortly after 4:00. It was a great evening. Jac has such wonderful friends. Some of them I had met at different times over the years, some of them I had never met but just heard about. The last guest left around 11. We really had a fun time, and I managed to embarrass myself by falling over while I was holding four plates of cake and flinging it all over the carpet (in my defence, it wasn’t entirely my fault!).
Monday, Barry and I wandered around Sydney a bit while Jac was at the University all day working. Today it rained most of the day, so we just hung around the apartment and I went for a manicure, pedicure and facial (Lyn from the party, a close friend of Jac’s, owns a salon and gave me the “family discount”). We popped out and got fresh prawns for supper and had them with and Tuscan-style spaghetti and asparagus.
Tomorrow the plan is to hit Bondi Beach for a sculpture exhibition and then maybe the Rocks, which is where the original convicts settled and is now a tourist area – some of the buildings there are still original, such as the prison. In the evening we are heading to Philip and Mike’s place (some friends from the party) for drinks. Thursday we’re not sure where we’re going during the day, but we’re ending up at John and Maria’s place for a Greek BBQ. I met them a couple of years ago with Jac in Greece – she works at the university with him and they were at the same conference in Greece. They are both Greek Australians.
Friday we fly off for the Cooks Islands!!
Barry:
Well we have left KL via Singapore, and are in the land of Kanga and other such marsupials such as the Kings Cross street walkers that ask me if I am “looking for business” every time I wander away from Christine. What a colourful city! The weather is changeable currently, either V hot or rainy, ie either shorts or overcoat.
Jac has been very hospitable, holding a party for us to meet everyone and a very enjoyable evening it was too! My hangover has almost gone and I have my vision back in one eye and with time the other may return. We are busy wandering around the City and soaking up the local culture, the Australians seem to be a very happy race of English ex-pats that have arrived here over the last 100 years or so and they seem to have made the place their own. The only element I am struggling with is the language; it is almost as hard to understand as Canadian.
Soon we leave for the Cook Islands (named after the famous cook Gordon Ramsey) where we can fully enjoy the PURE holiday experience of lying about in the sun with impunity, taking cover from the heat of the day underneath Christine’s enormous new hat.
We arrived in Sydney, Australia almost a week ago now, and are heading out this Friday.
Uncle Jac picked us up from the airport last Friday after another great flight on Singapore Airlines. On Saturday, we headed up into the Blue Mountains for one night. We visited a friend of Uncle Jac’s called Jules, who has a beautiful little house in a village in the mountains and is tons of fun. Then we went for a short hike until we decided we had descended far enough. What goes down must come back up, so we did and were glad we hadn’t gone any further down! Then we checked into our hotel, which was a lovely old historic hotel that had undergone many facelifts. The latest was lovely, but only a portion of the hotel was actually open. We went through the unused portion of the hotel and found lovely Art Deco spaces going to waste, along with a pool complete with a dolphin fountain! It was all so lovely and so wasted! We met Jules for high tea, which was extended to include a bottle of wine when it started raining, thus preventing us leaving. It stopped in time for us to head back to the hotel and get changed so we could go out for dinner at Darley’s, an absolutely fabulous restaurant with exquisite food. We ended up with a private room (through a series of fortunate events) and were served by the executive chef. We had dinner with another friend of Jac’s, Gary, and it was a great evening overall.
The next day, Sunday, we stopped by the Three Sisters viewpoint and then headed back to Sydney, where Uncle Jac was having a cocktail party in our honour (also in celebration of his 10 years lecturing at Macquarie University) in the afternoon. We did a blitz shop for the food and got it all prepared and set up in time for the guests, who started arriving shortly after 4:00. It was a great evening. Jac has such wonderful friends. Some of them I had met at different times over the years, some of them I had never met but just heard about. The last guest left around 11. We really had a fun time, and I managed to embarrass myself by falling over while I was holding four plates of cake and flinging it all over the carpet (in my defence, it wasn’t entirely my fault!).
Monday, Barry and I wandered around Sydney a bit while Jac was at the University all day working. Today it rained most of the day, so we just hung around the apartment and I went for a manicure, pedicure and facial (Lyn from the party, a close friend of Jac’s, owns a salon and gave me the “family discount”). We popped out and got fresh prawns for supper and had them with and Tuscan-style spaghetti and asparagus.
Tomorrow the plan is to hit Bondi Beach for a sculpture exhibition and then maybe the Rocks, which is where the original convicts settled and is now a tourist area – some of the buildings there are still original, such as the prison. In the evening we are heading to Philip and Mike’s place (some friends from the party) for drinks. Thursday we’re not sure where we’re going during the day, but we’re ending up at John and Maria’s place for a Greek BBQ. I met them a couple of years ago with Jac in Greece – she works at the university with him and they were at the same conference in Greece. They are both Greek Australians.
Friday we fly off for the Cooks Islands!!
Barry:
Well we have left KL via Singapore, and are in the land of Kanga and other such marsupials such as the Kings Cross street walkers that ask me if I am “looking for business” every time I wander away from Christine. What a colourful city! The weather is changeable currently, either V hot or rainy, ie either shorts or overcoat.
Jac has been very hospitable, holding a party for us to meet everyone and a very enjoyable evening it was too! My hangover has almost gone and I have my vision back in one eye and with time the other may return. We are busy wandering around the City and soaking up the local culture, the Australians seem to be a very happy race of English ex-pats that have arrived here over the last 100 years or so and they seem to have made the place their own. The only element I am struggling with is the language; it is almost as hard to understand as Canadian.
Soon we leave for the Cook Islands (named after the famous cook Gordon Ramsey) where we can fully enjoy the PURE holiday experience of lying about in the sun with impunity, taking cover from the heat of the day underneath Christine’s enormous new hat.
Thursday, 9 October 2008
Kuala Lumpur
Christine:
Here we are at the Changi Airport in Singapore, having just come back from Kuala Lumpur (or KL, as it's commonly known). We've just been for a swim in the rooftop pool here at the airport and are about to grab a bite to eat before checking into our transit hotel. All this in the airport! Changi is a wonderful stopover airport!!
We loved Malaysia and KL. KL is about a hour's drive from the airport, but fortunately, taxis are cheap! It was actually the same price for a cab as for the train from the airport. The hotel was in a very interesting neighbourhood; there was a Chinese restaurant open until 2 am across the street and an Indian restaurant open 24 hours with a tandoori oven right on the street beside it!
The following day, a car picked us up from the airport and we went off to the Kuala Gadah Elephant Sanctuary. It was over an hour drive from KL, and we got there quite early, so the driver took us to a park close by called Deerland. They had a number of animals there that you could feed and interact with, including deer, flying squirrels, honey bears, birds and all sorts of others. It was great fun! At Kuala Gandah we had a simple lunch of local food, which consisted of rice and chicken and a fried egg, and then watched a movie about elephant conservation. The centre is very involved in re-locating elephants from endangered habitats in Malaysia, Thailand and Myanmar into a park in Malaysia. They also rescue injured and orphaned elephants. They had three babies there and a few older tame elephants that are used to calm elephants when they are re-locating them. There were people from all over the world. First the older elephants came out and the handlers rode them into the river and gave them a good wash (elephants put dirt on themselves to keep off the bugs). Then they put them with the babies in an area and brought out fruit and everyone was able to feed them. After that, they gave everyone rides on the older elephants - straight onto their backs, not on a basket or anything. It was awesome! Then they brought one of the older elephants down to the river and took 3 or 4 at a time on his back into the river, where he would go over on his side and dump the riders off into the water! It was so much fun. The babies were in the river too so we could all play with them and pet them. We bought some peanuts and the babies went mad for them, snaking their little trunks around our arms to get at them faster than we could feed them! It was such a great day! Our driver's name was Joe, and he became our "official photographer", so we've got some great photos! They had showers and stuff there so we cleaned up and changed and headed back into KL, going through a downpour on the way!
In the evening, we went out for dinner with a friend of my Uncle Jac's, Dave. He's Malaysian and we went to an authentic Malaysian restaurant. It was great - Dave's a great guy and we had lots of fun. After dinner we walked down the main shopping "strip" and then jumped a taxi to Petaling Street in Chinatown (Dave went home as he had to work in the morning). This street was Barry's version of heaven. There were traders chock-a-block, selling imitation watches, handbags, perfume, wallets, sunglasses, etc. Barry loves his "replica" designer watches and he was having lots of fun haggling and joking around with the traders. It was a fun evening all around!
The next day we slept in a bit and headed up to Batu Caves, three caves considered holy by Hindus and located just outside of KL. There are 272 step up to the Temple Cave, which has a number of Hindu shrines in it. There was a lot of water dripping, and people putting flowers and other offerings on the shrines, although I think there were more tourists than devout Hindus. On step 204 is another cave called the Dark Cave. It has no shrines in it, and you need to go with a guide to see it. There are a number of bat colonies living in it, so there isn't any artificial light in it and flash photography is only allowed in certain places. It was great going through it with headlamps and flashlights. There were some different rock formations as well as some cool bugs (and some not so cool cockroaches!). There are snakes that live in there as well, and a dog that lives there and looks after things - he eats coconuts! At the foot of the moutain, a little further on, is another smaller cave that had some more shrines in it. It was very cool and we really enjoyed it.
After that, we caught a taxi to the Bird Park, grabbed some lunch in a restaurant right in the park, and wandered through. It is mostly enclosed, like a big aviary, so the birds were all over the place. Lots of peacocks and storks and egrets. There was a parrot house where you could go in and feed the parrots and lorries - they would land right on your hand and eat out of it. It was very cool - Barry had a blast!
Barry:
It would appear that on my holiday I have become a free meal ticket for endangered creatures, feed this, feed that and give blood to any flying critter. I am currently enjoying the after effects of a very hot (chilli) bowl of Chinese noodles; it was very hot on the way in and it has gone through my body like a Chinese chainsaw. The jury is still out as to whether it is hotter on the way out.
Changi airport is so much fun, I do believe that I could spend a week here on holiday! We will have to return to Asia as the people and their culture is wonderful, the food is great and to this add the flora and fauna.
Here we are at the Changi Airport in Singapore, having just come back from Kuala Lumpur (or KL, as it's commonly known). We've just been for a swim in the rooftop pool here at the airport and are about to grab a bite to eat before checking into our transit hotel. All this in the airport! Changi is a wonderful stopover airport!!
We loved Malaysia and KL. KL is about a hour's drive from the airport, but fortunately, taxis are cheap! It was actually the same price for a cab as for the train from the airport. The hotel was in a very interesting neighbourhood; there was a Chinese restaurant open until 2 am across the street and an Indian restaurant open 24 hours with a tandoori oven right on the street beside it!
The following day, a car picked us up from the airport and we went off to the Kuala Gadah Elephant Sanctuary. It was over an hour drive from KL, and we got there quite early, so the driver took us to a park close by called Deerland. They had a number of animals there that you could feed and interact with, including deer, flying squirrels, honey bears, birds and all sorts of others. It was great fun! At Kuala Gandah we had a simple lunch of local food, which consisted of rice and chicken and a fried egg, and then watched a movie about elephant conservation. The centre is very involved in re-locating elephants from endangered habitats in Malaysia, Thailand and Myanmar into a park in Malaysia. They also rescue injured and orphaned elephants. They had three babies there and a few older tame elephants that are used to calm elephants when they are re-locating them. There were people from all over the world. First the older elephants came out and the handlers rode them into the river and gave them a good wash (elephants put dirt on themselves to keep off the bugs). Then they put them with the babies in an area and brought out fruit and everyone was able to feed them. After that, they gave everyone rides on the older elephants - straight onto their backs, not on a basket or anything. It was awesome! Then they brought one of the older elephants down to the river and took 3 or 4 at a time on his back into the river, where he would go over on his side and dump the riders off into the water! It was so much fun. The babies were in the river too so we could all play with them and pet them. We bought some peanuts and the babies went mad for them, snaking their little trunks around our arms to get at them faster than we could feed them! It was such a great day! Our driver's name was Joe, and he became our "official photographer", so we've got some great photos! They had showers and stuff there so we cleaned up and changed and headed back into KL, going through a downpour on the way!
In the evening, we went out for dinner with a friend of my Uncle Jac's, Dave. He's Malaysian and we went to an authentic Malaysian restaurant. It was great - Dave's a great guy and we had lots of fun. After dinner we walked down the main shopping "strip" and then jumped a taxi to Petaling Street in Chinatown (Dave went home as he had to work in the morning). This street was Barry's version of heaven. There were traders chock-a-block, selling imitation watches, handbags, perfume, wallets, sunglasses, etc. Barry loves his "replica" designer watches and he was having lots of fun haggling and joking around with the traders. It was a fun evening all around!
The next day we slept in a bit and headed up to Batu Caves, three caves considered holy by Hindus and located just outside of KL. There are 272 step up to the Temple Cave, which has a number of Hindu shrines in it. There was a lot of water dripping, and people putting flowers and other offerings on the shrines, although I think there were more tourists than devout Hindus. On step 204 is another cave called the Dark Cave. It has no shrines in it, and you need to go with a guide to see it. There are a number of bat colonies living in it, so there isn't any artificial light in it and flash photography is only allowed in certain places. It was great going through it with headlamps and flashlights. There were some different rock formations as well as some cool bugs (and some not so cool cockroaches!). There are snakes that live in there as well, and a dog that lives there and looks after things - he eats coconuts! At the foot of the moutain, a little further on, is another smaller cave that had some more shrines in it. It was very cool and we really enjoyed it.
After that, we caught a taxi to the Bird Park, grabbed some lunch in a restaurant right in the park, and wandered through. It is mostly enclosed, like a big aviary, so the birds were all over the place. Lots of peacocks and storks and egrets. There was a parrot house where you could go in and feed the parrots and lorries - they would land right on your hand and eat out of it. It was very cool - Barry had a blast!
Barry:
It would appear that on my holiday I have become a free meal ticket for endangered creatures, feed this, feed that and give blood to any flying critter. I am currently enjoying the after effects of a very hot (chilli) bowl of Chinese noodles; it was very hot on the way in and it has gone through my body like a Chinese chainsaw. The jury is still out as to whether it is hotter on the way out.
Changi airport is so much fun, I do believe that I could spend a week here on holiday! We will have to return to Asia as the people and their culture is wonderful, the food is great and to this add the flora and fauna.
Sunday, 5 October 2008
Singapore
Christine:
We're on our second day in Singapore, and we're bored! lol
We arrived two days ago on Singapore Airlines and took a shuttle from the airport to the hotel. It was a shuttle used by a number of hotels and we had to pay for it. We were quite annoyed to find that we were the last people they dropped off (which meant we had to ride it for an hour and a half) and then they couldn't (or wouldn't) pull up in front of the hotel so they dumped us and our stuff off across the road and we had to carry everything across 4 lanes of traffic! I don't think we'll be taking it back! We'd rather plump for a taxi and save ourselves an hour!
Anyway, we're staying in a hotel near Chinatown, which is brilliant (being near Chinatown, I mean - the hotel is mediocre, but cheap)! We've eaten there twice and wandered the streets - it comes alive at night. We took a hop-on/hop-off bus (discounted with Singapore Airlines) and went up to the Singapore Botanical Gardens yesterday. What a goregous place! It was really beautiful and peaceful. Then we jumped back on the bus and rode it to Little India. There was a great outdoor flea market that we looked through, and we ate at a little open cafe where there were no tourists - the food was great! From there we jumped back on the bus for a couple of stops and got off when Barry saw the F1 Grand Prix remanants. We then had to walk as much of the course as we could, which was ok because it took us by the harbour and we saw the Merlion, the symbol of Singapore, and some other historical stuff. After that we slowly walked back through Chinatown, stopping for a massage and supper, and then to the hotel.
This morning we got up late and went down to Fort Canning Park, which is a hill in the middle of Singapore where the operational headquarters were during WWII, that is until the British et al surrendered. We went on a tour of the underground bunker and then ate at The Legends, a lovely expat club with a fantastic Sunday brunch buffet. We walked around the park and saw a few different historical things - the house where Sir Stamford Raffles (the founder of British Singapore) lived, a holy shrine called a Keramat and some gorgeous trees, among other things. There is also an enormous reservoir at the top of the hill, built before WWII, which still services Singapore.
Then we wandered down to Clarke's Quay, full of modern bars and restaurants and made for tourists! We have opted out of some things that were recommended to us because we just don't see the point. We are trying to discover the real Singapore, but I think this is it - a somewhat manmade city with no pre-19th century culture that has survived. For the first time, we're not feeling like we've missed out on seeing something - we're ready to leave!
Barry:
We're on our second day in Singapore, and we're bored! lol
We arrived two days ago on Singapore Airlines and took a shuttle from the airport to the hotel. It was a shuttle used by a number of hotels and we had to pay for it. We were quite annoyed to find that we were the last people they dropped off (which meant we had to ride it for an hour and a half) and then they couldn't (or wouldn't) pull up in front of the hotel so they dumped us and our stuff off across the road and we had to carry everything across 4 lanes of traffic! I don't think we'll be taking it back! We'd rather plump for a taxi and save ourselves an hour!
Anyway, we're staying in a hotel near Chinatown, which is brilliant (being near Chinatown, I mean - the hotel is mediocre, but cheap)! We've eaten there twice and wandered the streets - it comes alive at night. We took a hop-on/hop-off bus (discounted with Singapore Airlines) and went up to the Singapore Botanical Gardens yesterday. What a goregous place! It was really beautiful and peaceful. Then we jumped back on the bus and rode it to Little India. There was a great outdoor flea market that we looked through, and we ate at a little open cafe where there were no tourists - the food was great! From there we jumped back on the bus for a couple of stops and got off when Barry saw the F1 Grand Prix remanants. We then had to walk as much of the course as we could, which was ok because it took us by the harbour and we saw the Merlion, the symbol of Singapore, and some other historical stuff. After that we slowly walked back through Chinatown, stopping for a massage and supper, and then to the hotel.
This morning we got up late and went down to Fort Canning Park, which is a hill in the middle of Singapore where the operational headquarters were during WWII, that is until the British et al surrendered. We went on a tour of the underground bunker and then ate at The Legends, a lovely expat club with a fantastic Sunday brunch buffet. We walked around the park and saw a few different historical things - the house where Sir Stamford Raffles (the founder of British Singapore) lived, a holy shrine called a Keramat and some gorgeous trees, among other things. There is also an enormous reservoir at the top of the hill, built before WWII, which still services Singapore.
Then we wandered down to Clarke's Quay, full of modern bars and restaurants and made for tourists! We have opted out of some things that were recommended to us because we just don't see the point. We are trying to discover the real Singapore, but I think this is it - a somewhat manmade city with no pre-19th century culture that has survived. For the first time, we're not feeling like we've missed out on seeing something - we're ready to leave!
Barry:
Well evidently I am a little behind on the posting of my Blogger, so here we go. Brunei was excellent, it was exactly what we needed. A good rest coupled with just the right amount of stuff to do and good company.
The golf was particularly good, let down only by my inability to play decent golf, well that and the attack of 'THEM'. Whilst Adam was taking his second shot on the fairway, I stood to one side in a little rough. I felt a little transient smarting from my feet. I was wearing golf SANDALS and upon looking down all I could see was a river of massive black ants, swarming over my feet. I had to act quickly, and in the most manly way possible I ran towards Adam screaming and waving my arms in the air like a girl. You must understand, dear reader, this was only to warn any other golfers in the area.
Well what can I say of Brunei? Visit and Visit soon before it is spoilt by someone or something, it still retains its colonial charm, wonderful place with every thing you need to hand, great place.
Singapore on the other hand is everything Brunei isn't. If you read 'lifestyle magazines' and think the Beckhams are philosophers, visit Singapore were you can shop your heart of stone right out. You can visit former historical sites, now demolished and re-built as shopping centres (the guide's words, not mine).
On the other hand there are gems, Fort Canning Park, the Botanical Gardens and the F1 circuit.
Thursday, 2 October 2008
Brunei
The past week in Brunei has been lovely and relaxing. We've been staying with our friends, Adam and Monica, and they have been the consummate hosts.
Brunei is a very nice country. It is a sultanate, so is ruled by the Sultan and his family. They are a benevolent dictatorship and the people are very happy. There is a lot of oil in this tiny country, so it is very rich and there are a lot of new buildings. There are only about 330,000 people in the whole country (less than 1/3 of the size of Calgary!) and there is free healthcare and no personal income tax. It would definitely be a nice place to live for a few years (but not for too long as it's very hot and humid), and I would highly recommend it if you are doing a tour through southeast Asia. Everyone is polite and friendly. It is a dry country, so there is no alcohol sold here. You can bring some in (limited quantities) but you have to declare it when you arrive and fill out a form. Perhaps that's why they have so few crime problems! The Sultan and his family are all devout Muslims, but there are other religions in the country and everyone is free to worship how they choose.
Adam and Monica have a membership at the Empire Hotel and Country Club, which gives them access to a number of sports and leisure activities, as well as the pools and beaches and sunbeds at the hotel itself. We played 9 holes of gold on the PGA championship course (designed by Jack Nicklaus), and Barry played another 18 holes with Adam (honing his bushcraft skills retrieving his golf balls from the jungle rough). Adam and Monica gave us a night in the hotel for a wedding gift, and it was lovely. The room was enormous and luxurious, all marble and wool carpet. The service and the food was lacking somewhat for a 6-star - they could learn a lot from the Chateau Lake Louise! We spent an afternoon just lounging around the pool and went for a dip in the ocean.
It's been lovely to be in one place for a week and catch up on our sleep. The first few mornings we slept in until 10 every morning! We've been out to eat every night at a variety of Asian restaurants with unfailingly lovely food. Things here are fairly inexpensive (a meal for the four of us would only run about £15 ($30). We did a bit of shopping, too. All in all it's been a brilliant visit and I have fond memories of Brunei!
One day, we parked up close to home and took a water taxi from Kuilap to Bandar Seri Begawam. A water taxi is just a sort of speedboat driven by one person, and they charge a flat rate per person. It was very cool! We went past Kampong Ayer, a town completely on stilts over the water. It is Hari Rya here, which is called Eid in the Arab countries and is the celebration ending Ramadan. It was like Christmas, with lots of lights up and people in new outfits and going to each other's houses. It's a great time to be over here!
Tomorrow we are off to Singapore for three nights. Barry is looking forward to getting a "replica designer" watch there (they have some very high-quality imitation goods out here!).
Brunei is a very nice country. It is a sultanate, so is ruled by the Sultan and his family. They are a benevolent dictatorship and the people are very happy. There is a lot of oil in this tiny country, so it is very rich and there are a lot of new buildings. There are only about 330,000 people in the whole country (less than 1/3 of the size of Calgary!) and there is free healthcare and no personal income tax. It would definitely be a nice place to live for a few years (but not for too long as it's very hot and humid), and I would highly recommend it if you are doing a tour through southeast Asia. Everyone is polite and friendly. It is a dry country, so there is no alcohol sold here. You can bring some in (limited quantities) but you have to declare it when you arrive and fill out a form. Perhaps that's why they have so few crime problems! The Sultan and his family are all devout Muslims, but there are other religions in the country and everyone is free to worship how they choose.
Adam and Monica have a membership at the Empire Hotel and Country Club, which gives them access to a number of sports and leisure activities, as well as the pools and beaches and sunbeds at the hotel itself. We played 9 holes of gold on the PGA championship course (designed by Jack Nicklaus), and Barry played another 18 holes with Adam (honing his bushcraft skills retrieving his golf balls from the jungle rough). Adam and Monica gave us a night in the hotel for a wedding gift, and it was lovely. The room was enormous and luxurious, all marble and wool carpet. The service and the food was lacking somewhat for a 6-star - they could learn a lot from the Chateau Lake Louise! We spent an afternoon just lounging around the pool and went for a dip in the ocean.
It's been lovely to be in one place for a week and catch up on our sleep. The first few mornings we slept in until 10 every morning! We've been out to eat every night at a variety of Asian restaurants with unfailingly lovely food. Things here are fairly inexpensive (a meal for the four of us would only run about £15 ($30). We did a bit of shopping, too. All in all it's been a brilliant visit and I have fond memories of Brunei!
One day, we parked up close to home and took a water taxi from Kuilap to Bandar Seri Begawam. A water taxi is just a sort of speedboat driven by one person, and they charge a flat rate per person. It was very cool! We went past Kampong Ayer, a town completely on stilts over the water. It is Hari Rya here, which is called Eid in the Arab countries and is the celebration ending Ramadan. It was like Christmas, with lots of lights up and people in new outfits and going to each other's houses. It's a great time to be over here!
Tomorrow we are off to Singapore for three nights. Barry is looking forward to getting a "replica designer" watch there (they have some very high-quality imitation goods out here!).
Sunday, 28 September 2008
A retrospective...
Christine:
Well, we're in Brunei now, having a lovely time with our friends, Adam and Monica. I'll write more about that in a few days, but I thought I would do a little reminiscing about our last two and a half weeks in the Middle East & Turkey. Our posts were always rushed as we were paying for our computer time, but now I have lots of time to write.
Our trip through Turkey, Syria and Jordan was hot and dirty and difficult. The language barrier was always challenging. The toilets in public places were usually the squatting kind, which are kind of disgusting and difficult to manage, especially when your digestive system starts to act up on you!
But our overall impression is one of wonder and fascination at the things we saw, and gratefulness at the friendliness of the people. With very few exceptions, everyone in these countries were friendly and helpful, often going out of there way to help us find something or some place, and explaining local customs and culture. We never once felt in danger (actually, we more unsafe in London!) and although at times we felt helpless trying to make ourselves understood, we always managed in the end.
We had some unique experiences;
Well, we're in Brunei now, having a lovely time with our friends, Adam and Monica. I'll write more about that in a few days, but I thought I would do a little reminiscing about our last two and a half weeks in the Middle East & Turkey. Our posts were always rushed as we were paying for our computer time, but now I have lots of time to write.
Our trip through Turkey, Syria and Jordan was hot and dirty and difficult. The language barrier was always challenging. The toilets in public places were usually the squatting kind, which are kind of disgusting and difficult to manage, especially when your digestive system starts to act up on you!
But our overall impression is one of wonder and fascination at the things we saw, and gratefulness at the friendliness of the people. With very few exceptions, everyone in these countries were friendly and helpful, often going out of there way to help us find something or some place, and explaining local customs and culture. We never once felt in danger (actually, we more unsafe in London!) and although at times we felt helpless trying to make ourselves understood, we always managed in the end.
We had some unique experiences;
- driving around western Turkey on roads ranging from straight and smooth to dirt (but which are all indicated on the map as primary roads)
- staying in a hotel in Kutahaya that was designed for Turks and had it's own hot-tub fed by the mineral hot springs
eating at a sea-side restaurant in Akcakoca watching an electrical storm over the Black Sea
- wandering centries-old souks in Aleppo
- posing for pictures with four teenage Syrian boys, none of whom spoke any English beyond "Hello"
- sitting in a Damascus clothing shop having tea with the shopkeepers and joking around with them in broken English
- having a traditional Syrian meal in a restaurant in Old Damascus and being entertained by a Whirling Dervish and a traditional folk singer
- riding in a car across the Syria/Jordan border with a Syrian and two Georgians
- having tea with a Bedouin in the magical surroundings of Petra
- seeing the place where Jesus was baptised
Thursday, 25 September 2008
Jordan
Christine:
Well, we're just getting ready to leave Jordan after a whirlwind tour!
Yesterday we got up early and drove down to Petra, about a 3 hour drive. We found a hotel first and then went to the site. It is absolutely enormous (250 sq km) and one of the most amazing things either of us had ever seen. We were blown away by the amazing facades carved into the bizarrely coloured, almost living, rock. Inside the facades, which were largely tombs, the rooms were carved symetrically and square. We went up a very long stairway that led to the top of the wadi, or valley. On the way, we stopped to rest and were invited by a lovely old Bedouin man to join him for tea. We chatted a bit with him, and listened to the silence of the rock. We were definitely off the main tourist route at that point. It was fantastic. It's really hard to put into words to describe how incredible the whole site is - you just have to experience it.
We stayed that night in Petra and the next morning headed out early for some other sites. Our first stop was Al Karak, another Crusader castle. It wasn't as well preserved as Crac des Chevalier, or as impressive defensively as the citadel at Aleppo, but was impressive none-the-less. From Al Karak, we drove out to the Dead Sea and drove up along the coast. It was a lovely deep blue at the bottom end, where we started, but became lighter as we drove up. There was no place to stop and go in it, however, unless you wanted to pay for the privilege or go on a major hike down to it. Just north of the Dead Sea was a fairly new excavation, which is a series of churches all built on the same site, belived to be the site where Jesus was baptised in the River Jordan. We were able to see the river and even dangle our feet in it. It was quite moving for me to see this important place - the foundation of my faith. We even got some water from the river! After that, it was a race into Amman to try to get to the Jordan Archeological Museum, where the Dead Sea scrolls are kept, but we didn't make it. It closes early on Fridays due to it being the Muslim holy day. We went to another Popeye's for supper, and then wandered around the site of the citadel and several temples, on the top of a hill in downtown Amman. We finished off the evening with a cup of tea in an outdoor cafe.
Our flight leaves for Bangkok at 3:30 am, so we need to check in by 1:30. We are currently at the Holiday Inn, where we are dropping off the rental car and they will take us to the airport at some point. Until then (for the next 4 hours), we will just clean up and relax a bit, either here at the hotel, or at the airport. No point in getting a hotel for just a few hours!
Barry:
Well, what can I say crossing the river Jordan into Amman a city with all the charm and sophisticaion of a tramps toilet, well sorry Christine told me that I must be nice its not that bad its just a bit of a shock after Syria. Driving here is mostly by touch the hire car looked like the pevious hirer had been round the car with a hammer.
But enough of that rubbish, there are no words in my poor and limited voabulary that would do justice to Petra, so I will say nothing but this, before you die you must go and look upon it.
In a few hours we leave for Bangkok, just a quick stop over and then hopefully, thankfully a rest.
Well, we're just getting ready to leave Jordan after a whirlwind tour!
Yesterday we got up early and drove down to Petra, about a 3 hour drive. We found a hotel first and then went to the site. It is absolutely enormous (250 sq km) and one of the most amazing things either of us had ever seen. We were blown away by the amazing facades carved into the bizarrely coloured, almost living, rock. Inside the facades, which were largely tombs, the rooms were carved symetrically and square. We went up a very long stairway that led to the top of the wadi, or valley. On the way, we stopped to rest and were invited by a lovely old Bedouin man to join him for tea. We chatted a bit with him, and listened to the silence of the rock. We were definitely off the main tourist route at that point. It was fantastic. It's really hard to put into words to describe how incredible the whole site is - you just have to experience it.
We stayed that night in Petra and the next morning headed out early for some other sites. Our first stop was Al Karak, another Crusader castle. It wasn't as well preserved as Crac des Chevalier, or as impressive defensively as the citadel at Aleppo, but was impressive none-the-less. From Al Karak, we drove out to the Dead Sea and drove up along the coast. It was a lovely deep blue at the bottom end, where we started, but became lighter as we drove up. There was no place to stop and go in it, however, unless you wanted to pay for the privilege or go on a major hike down to it. Just north of the Dead Sea was a fairly new excavation, which is a series of churches all built on the same site, belived to be the site where Jesus was baptised in the River Jordan. We were able to see the river and even dangle our feet in it. It was quite moving for me to see this important place - the foundation of my faith. We even got some water from the river! After that, it was a race into Amman to try to get to the Jordan Archeological Museum, where the Dead Sea scrolls are kept, but we didn't make it. It closes early on Fridays due to it being the Muslim holy day. We went to another Popeye's for supper, and then wandered around the site of the citadel and several temples, on the top of a hill in downtown Amman. We finished off the evening with a cup of tea in an outdoor cafe.
Our flight leaves for Bangkok at 3:30 am, so we need to check in by 1:30. We are currently at the Holiday Inn, where we are dropping off the rental car and they will take us to the airport at some point. Until then (for the next 4 hours), we will just clean up and relax a bit, either here at the hotel, or at the airport. No point in getting a hotel for just a few hours!
Barry:
Well, what can I say crossing the river Jordan into Amman a city with all the charm and sophisticaion of a tramps toilet, well sorry Christine told me that I must be nice its not that bad its just a bit of a shock after Syria. Driving here is mostly by touch the hire car looked like the pevious hirer had been round the car with a hammer.
But enough of that rubbish, there are no words in my poor and limited voabulary that would do justice to Petra, so I will say nothing but this, before you die you must go and look upon it.
In a few hours we leave for Bangkok, just a quick stop over and then hopefully, thankfully a rest.
Tuesday, 23 September 2008
Syria to Jordan
Christine:
Hello, just arrived in Amman, Jordan today via shared taxi from Damascus. Amman is a relatively modern city - first "American-style" fast food joints we've seen since a Macdonalds and a couple of Burger Kings in Turkey. We went to Popeye's Chicken and Biscuits this afternoon for our meal - we were craving western-style food. For those who don't know, Popeye's is an American chain that Barry's family raves about. It was really quite good!
After we last posted, we went down to St. Ananias' Church, which was very cool, and then wandered all over the Old City looking for St. Paul's Church, which we found eventually. After that, we dragged our weary carcasses back to the hotel and rested.
Our last day in Damascus was fantastic. We went to Stratic's office and chatted with Shaza, the Administrator, and Said, the General Manager, and then the Stratic driver, John, took us up to the Caission hill that Damascus is at the foot of and we got a lovely view of the city - very spread out and flat. He then dropped us off at a handicrafts souk, which we wandered around. It was lovely, but expensive. We bimbled around on our way to the Old City again, and I ended up getting a beautiful Punjabi-style tunic and pants suit. We went back to the Old City and wandered around the souks a bit more, and stumbled upon a great little restaurant when we were looking for a place to have tea. It was called Narcissus Palace, and was in a restored 18th century Ottoman house's courtyard. It was so great - all black and white stone that is popular from that period, with a fountain in the middle and plants. We had a snack and some tea and spent quite a bit of time there. Then we wandered around until we found our way out of the Old City and back to the hotel. We were getting ready to go out to dinner with Said later than night, when I suddenly discovered my debit card had disappeared! We looked everywhere and even went back to the restaurant (a lovely, kind man in the Old City helped us find it again!) but it was nowhere, so I spent some time on the phone cancelling it! At least Barry still has his. John and Said picked us up at 8 and Said took us to a great restaurant in the Old City called Neutron. As we walked in, a Whirling Dervish dancer was starting his dance. It was so cool, but I got nauseous just watching him spin and spin and spin. Said ordered everything for us and it was all wonderful. It was all very Syrian, with a Syrian liquer similar to Greek ouzo (but nicer). We were there almost 4 hours! What a lovely end to our time in Damascus!
This morning, John picked us up and brought us to the shared taxi place and we loaded our stuff into a car. Then we had to wait an hour until we got another two passengers to fill up the car. The two passengers were two ladies from Georgia! So, there we were, trundling down the highway from Damascus in a car driven by a Syrian who speaks only Arabic, a Canadian and an Englishman who speak only English, and two Georgian ladies who speak Georgian, some Arabic and a few words of English!! But, we all made it through the border ok and into Amman. It's so hot here!! We checked into our hotel, went and picked up the car and then went for Popeyes!
Tomorrow, we leave early in the morning for Petra, and we'll stay there tomorrow night. Then the next day we will drive back, stoppping at Kerack, the Archeological Museum in Amman and then up to Kerash, and enormous Roman city in ruins (similar to Palmyra). Then we fly at 3:30 am to Bangkok!
Barry:
I am very sorry to say goodbye to Damascus and Syria; I will miss it all very much and we shall have to come back. All is well generally, just that someone has replaced my sphicter with a garden hose sprinkler - oh what joy - A SYRIAN SQUAT TOILET!! At least they put a hose and a yard broom in there, so its swings and roundabouts really, but you get some funny looks when you leave the bathroom soaking wet from head to foot and join your friends back at the table.
The trip down to Amman was fine. I was the only person in the taxi that spoke actual English, the rest were Arab, Canadian or Georgian; as usual I talked to myself most of the way down. Well at least we are here and its Petra and stuff (historical) tomorrow.
Hello, just arrived in Amman, Jordan today via shared taxi from Damascus. Amman is a relatively modern city - first "American-style" fast food joints we've seen since a Macdonalds and a couple of Burger Kings in Turkey. We went to Popeye's Chicken and Biscuits this afternoon for our meal - we were craving western-style food. For those who don't know, Popeye's is an American chain that Barry's family raves about. It was really quite good!
After we last posted, we went down to St. Ananias' Church, which was very cool, and then wandered all over the Old City looking for St. Paul's Church, which we found eventually. After that, we dragged our weary carcasses back to the hotel and rested.
Our last day in Damascus was fantastic. We went to Stratic's office and chatted with Shaza, the Administrator, and Said, the General Manager, and then the Stratic driver, John, took us up to the Caission hill that Damascus is at the foot of and we got a lovely view of the city - very spread out and flat. He then dropped us off at a handicrafts souk, which we wandered around. It was lovely, but expensive. We bimbled around on our way to the Old City again, and I ended up getting a beautiful Punjabi-style tunic and pants suit. We went back to the Old City and wandered around the souks a bit more, and stumbled upon a great little restaurant when we were looking for a place to have tea. It was called Narcissus Palace, and was in a restored 18th century Ottoman house's courtyard. It was so great - all black and white stone that is popular from that period, with a fountain in the middle and plants. We had a snack and some tea and spent quite a bit of time there. Then we wandered around until we found our way out of the Old City and back to the hotel. We were getting ready to go out to dinner with Said later than night, when I suddenly discovered my debit card had disappeared! We looked everywhere and even went back to the restaurant (a lovely, kind man in the Old City helped us find it again!) but it was nowhere, so I spent some time on the phone cancelling it! At least Barry still has his. John and Said picked us up at 8 and Said took us to a great restaurant in the Old City called Neutron. As we walked in, a Whirling Dervish dancer was starting his dance. It was so cool, but I got nauseous just watching him spin and spin and spin. Said ordered everything for us and it was all wonderful. It was all very Syrian, with a Syrian liquer similar to Greek ouzo (but nicer). We were there almost 4 hours! What a lovely end to our time in Damascus!
This morning, John picked us up and brought us to the shared taxi place and we loaded our stuff into a car. Then we had to wait an hour until we got another two passengers to fill up the car. The two passengers were two ladies from Georgia! So, there we were, trundling down the highway from Damascus in a car driven by a Syrian who speaks only Arabic, a Canadian and an Englishman who speak only English, and two Georgian ladies who speak Georgian, some Arabic and a few words of English!! But, we all made it through the border ok and into Amman. It's so hot here!! We checked into our hotel, went and picked up the car and then went for Popeyes!
Tomorrow, we leave early in the morning for Petra, and we'll stay there tomorrow night. Then the next day we will drive back, stoppping at Kerack, the Archeological Museum in Amman and then up to Kerash, and enormous Roman city in ruins (similar to Palmyra). Then we fly at 3:30 am to Bangkok!
Barry:
I am very sorry to say goodbye to Damascus and Syria; I will miss it all very much and we shall have to come back. All is well generally, just that someone has replaced my sphicter with a garden hose sprinkler - oh what joy - A SYRIAN SQUAT TOILET!! At least they put a hose and a yard broom in there, so its swings and roundabouts really, but you get some funny looks when you leave the bathroom soaking wet from head to foot and join your friends back at the table.
The trip down to Amman was fine. I was the only person in the taxi that spoke actual English, the rest were Arab, Canadian or Georgian; as usual I talked to myself most of the way down. Well at least we are here and its Petra and stuff (historical) tomorrow.
Sunday, 21 September 2008
Syria
Christine:
We are currently in Damascus, arriving here last night from Aleppo. A driver, Gaston, who is also a tour guide (and a good one!) picked us up in Aleppo and drove us down the Damascus, taking us to some things along the way. First we stopped in Hama, where there are some enormous waterwheels. Apparently, the Arabs have been using them for centuries to move water into aquaducts for irrigation. They are so clever, these Arabs!!
Then we went to Crac des Chevalier (this is the correct spelling, I found out!). It was fanstatic! Its set the break in the mountain range between Lebanon and Syria, called Homs Pass and was built to control the pass. It is extremely well preserved and amazingly huge, with an outer defensive wall, then a moat, and then the main part of the castle. All this perched up on a mountain. It was sacked once, but it must have been difficult!!
After that, Gaston drove us to Ma'aloula, the last place left in the world that still speaks Aramaic, the language of Jesus and that time period. The inhabitants still all speak it to each other, but they also speak Arabic. There are several churches and all services and masses are held in Aramaic. It was very cool.
After that, it was Damascus and a lovely hotel near the city centre. We were there fairly early so we could have a bit of 'downtime'.
The next morning (this morning) a lovely man from Stratic, John, picked us up and took us round the Great Umayyad Mosque, one of the major Islamic mosques worldwide. It was previously a Christian church, and before that a series of pagan temples from different time periods (Jupiter during the Roman times, Athena during the Greek times and Hadad during Semitic times). There is a huge tomb there, reportedly the tomb of St. John the Baptist. He is revered as a prophet in the Qu'uran (Koran). There were two separate prayer halls, one for the Shia'a Muslims and one for the Sunni Muslims. I had to put on a special robe covering my head and whole body (but not my face) and Barry had to put on a skirt, because he was wearing shorts! It was very funny!
We went to the lovely Azem Palace in the middle of the souks, built in the mid-1700s, and then wandered through the souks a bit. And that brings us to where we presently are - in an internet cafe between the souks and the Christian quarter. We are heading to the Christian quarter to go to Ananias' house, which is now a church, and to St. Paul's church, which is purportedly where he was smuggled out of the city over the wall after he had been preaching about Jesus in the streets of Damascus (click here for the bible reference to the above two people).
Barry:
Crac de Chevalier bla bla bla another big crusader fort with a large steep zig zag entrance, secrect passages, inner and outer moats, but wait evidently Carrak in Jordan has the best ever preseved crusader fort/castle/citadel so onwards, ever onwards, I guess I have become a crac addict.
Damascus is a wonderful city were the local government provide a wonderful service for the local taxi companies, first they paint them bright yellow then they snap off the indicator stalk and finally remove the accelerator pedal and fit an on and off switch in its place. As a matter of course the horn is used to accompany any movement of the taxi and is leant on when stationary. Oh by the way nice city, religous stuff, old town etc.
We are currently in Damascus, arriving here last night from Aleppo. A driver, Gaston, who is also a tour guide (and a good one!) picked us up in Aleppo and drove us down the Damascus, taking us to some things along the way. First we stopped in Hama, where there are some enormous waterwheels. Apparently, the Arabs have been using them for centuries to move water into aquaducts for irrigation. They are so clever, these Arabs!!
Then we went to Crac des Chevalier (this is the correct spelling, I found out!). It was fanstatic! Its set the break in the mountain range between Lebanon and Syria, called Homs Pass and was built to control the pass. It is extremely well preserved and amazingly huge, with an outer defensive wall, then a moat, and then the main part of the castle. All this perched up on a mountain. It was sacked once, but it must have been difficult!!
After that, Gaston drove us to Ma'aloula, the last place left in the world that still speaks Aramaic, the language of Jesus and that time period. The inhabitants still all speak it to each other, but they also speak Arabic. There are several churches and all services and masses are held in Aramaic. It was very cool.
After that, it was Damascus and a lovely hotel near the city centre. We were there fairly early so we could have a bit of 'downtime'.
The next morning (this morning) a lovely man from Stratic, John, picked us up and took us round the Great Umayyad Mosque, one of the major Islamic mosques worldwide. It was previously a Christian church, and before that a series of pagan temples from different time periods (Jupiter during the Roman times, Athena during the Greek times and Hadad during Semitic times). There is a huge tomb there, reportedly the tomb of St. John the Baptist. He is revered as a prophet in the Qu'uran (Koran). There were two separate prayer halls, one for the Shia'a Muslims and one for the Sunni Muslims. I had to put on a special robe covering my head and whole body (but not my face) and Barry had to put on a skirt, because he was wearing shorts! It was very funny!
We went to the lovely Azem Palace in the middle of the souks, built in the mid-1700s, and then wandered through the souks a bit. And that brings us to where we presently are - in an internet cafe between the souks and the Christian quarter. We are heading to the Christian quarter to go to Ananias' house, which is now a church, and to St. Paul's church, which is purportedly where he was smuggled out of the city over the wall after he had been preaching about Jesus in the streets of Damascus (click here for the bible reference to the above two people).
Barry:
Crac de Chevalier bla bla bla another big crusader fort with a large steep zig zag entrance, secrect passages, inner and outer moats, but wait evidently Carrak in Jordan has the best ever preseved crusader fort/castle/citadel so onwards, ever onwards, I guess I have become a crac addict.
Damascus is a wonderful city were the local government provide a wonderful service for the local taxi companies, first they paint them bright yellow then they snap off the indicator stalk and finally remove the accelerator pedal and fit an on and off switch in its place. As a matter of course the horn is used to accompany any movement of the taxi and is leant on when stationary. Oh by the way nice city, religous stuff, old town etc.
Friday, 19 September 2008
Turkey to Aleppo
Christine:
We arrived in Aleppo, Syria very tired but in good spirits. When we finally got to the train station in Istanbul, we discovered that the train wasn't running that day - they said was broken. So, we made our way to the bus station and got tickets for a coach all the way to Antakya. It was a 14 hour trip and the worst bit of the road was right in the middle of the night, so I only ended up with one hour of sleep. Barry managed 2 or 3 hours. The coach was actually quite comfortable and modern - we were served beverages and given a snack. There was a movie (in Turkish of course!). We befriended a lovely guy from Oman on the trip - he was helping us by translating the driver and steward's announcements and questions. We told him what we were doing and he chatted to the driver and found out that the same bus company had a minibus going to Aleppo that morning, just when we were getting in. It would be cheaper and easier than trying to get a share taxi. When the bus arrived, he helped us communicate with getting the ticket for the next bus, getting our money changed to Syrian pounds, and letting us know what was all going on. He was an answer to prayer (along with the bus leaving Istanbul at the right time for us to catch it and the bus going to Aleppo at the right time for us). The Aleppo bus didn't actually leave until 9:30 am, but they needed our passports when we got in at 7:30 am so they could put them on the manifest which they then faxed to the Syrian border post so they could pre-vet everyone. Anyway, after all that, we made Aleppo.
We got a room at the Baron Hotel, and it is better than I expected! It is fairly shabby and run down, but in a gentile sort of way. Think shabby chic. We are loving it's little idiosyncracies. We hit the city after freshening up - went through the souk and up to the Citadel in the city, which is an amazing fortress that the Crusaders were never able to take. The souk was like stepping back in time - narrow cobbled passageways, there was no electricity so people were using candlelight or battery-operated LED lights, sacks of nuts and dried fruit, meat hanging on hooks, women gliding around in full-length dresses and headcoverings, Arabic swirling around our heads.
It is a very cool city - noisy and dirty and busy and hot - but the people are wonderful and we are enjoying it. Tomorrow the car will pick us up and take us to Damascus via Krac de Chevalier. Apparently, my friends in Damascus from Stratic have arranged a whole itinerary for us for the next 3 days!
Barry:
The wheels on the bus go round and round and round and round ---- for 14 hours if you don't include the waiting about in coach stations, border posts etc. Hang on, my writing has gone black! Syria is a must do destination; the people are great and we have had a lot of fun so far. The citadel there at Aleppo is truly amazing for a manmade object - the cisterns underneath are enough to amaze let alone the citadel above which is an absolute warren of passages and minor fortifications with covering fields of fire. It is easy to see why it never fell even to the Crusaders.
We are staying in the Baron Hotel, shabby colonial granduer, drinking in the same bar as TE Lawrence and Agatha Christie (they are not residence currently), G&T in the lounge bar my good man, if you will.
And for Alice and Phil (ops room) move the pins down from turkey about 700 miles to Aleppo and tomorrow Damascus.
Miss you all
We arrived in Aleppo, Syria very tired but in good spirits. When we finally got to the train station in Istanbul, we discovered that the train wasn't running that day - they said was broken. So, we made our way to the bus station and got tickets for a coach all the way to Antakya. It was a 14 hour trip and the worst bit of the road was right in the middle of the night, so I only ended up with one hour of sleep. Barry managed 2 or 3 hours. The coach was actually quite comfortable and modern - we were served beverages and given a snack. There was a movie (in Turkish of course!). We befriended a lovely guy from Oman on the trip - he was helping us by translating the driver and steward's announcements and questions. We told him what we were doing and he chatted to the driver and found out that the same bus company had a minibus going to Aleppo that morning, just when we were getting in. It would be cheaper and easier than trying to get a share taxi. When the bus arrived, he helped us communicate with getting the ticket for the next bus, getting our money changed to Syrian pounds, and letting us know what was all going on. He was an answer to prayer (along with the bus leaving Istanbul at the right time for us to catch it and the bus going to Aleppo at the right time for us). The Aleppo bus didn't actually leave until 9:30 am, but they needed our passports when we got in at 7:30 am so they could put them on the manifest which they then faxed to the Syrian border post so they could pre-vet everyone. Anyway, after all that, we made Aleppo.
We got a room at the Baron Hotel, and it is better than I expected! It is fairly shabby and run down, but in a gentile sort of way. Think shabby chic. We are loving it's little idiosyncracies. We hit the city after freshening up - went through the souk and up to the Citadel in the city, which is an amazing fortress that the Crusaders were never able to take. The souk was like stepping back in time - narrow cobbled passageways, there was no electricity so people were using candlelight or battery-operated LED lights, sacks of nuts and dried fruit, meat hanging on hooks, women gliding around in full-length dresses and headcoverings, Arabic swirling around our heads.
It is a very cool city - noisy and dirty and busy and hot - but the people are wonderful and we are enjoying it. Tomorrow the car will pick us up and take us to Damascus via Krac de Chevalier. Apparently, my friends in Damascus from Stratic have arranged a whole itinerary for us for the next 3 days!
Barry:
The wheels on the bus go round and round and round and round ---- for 14 hours if you don't include the waiting about in coach stations, border posts etc. Hang on, my writing has gone black! Syria is a must do destination; the people are great and we have had a lot of fun so far. The citadel there at Aleppo is truly amazing for a manmade object - the cisterns underneath are enough to amaze let alone the citadel above which is an absolute warren of passages and minor fortifications with covering fields of fire. It is easy to see why it never fell even to the Crusaders.
We are staying in the Baron Hotel, shabby colonial granduer, drinking in the same bar as TE Lawrence and Agatha Christie (they are not residence currently), G&T in the lounge bar my good man, if you will.
And for Alice and Phil (ops room) move the pins down from turkey about 700 miles to Aleppo and tomorrow Damascus.
Miss you all
Thursday, 18 September 2008
Istanbul
Christine:
We made Istanbul a few days ago and have been having a fantastic time here! We drove the car in and were only to happy to relinquish it after 6 days of insane Turkish drivers. The road into Istanbul and in Istanbul was the worst!!!
We're in a great little pensıon (hotel) in Sutanamhet, which is the very old part of Istanbul. Also the most touristy, but we try to avoid that as much as we can. We went to the covered bazaar (market) yesterday, apparently the largest in the world. It was so much fun chatting and haggling with the traders. It quite regulated so they can't get to aggressive! Then we headed to Topkapı Palace, the headquarters of the Ottoman Empire, via the backstreets, which was a fascinating peek into Istanbul culture.
Topkapi was fabulous! Very large and sprawling, it sort of reminded me of Hampton Court Palace in England, only more 'eastern'. I went into the harem (there was an additional charge so Barry didn't come in), which was very cool, and we wandered around for 2 hours. They had a number of Muslim relics there, just like the Catholic churches in Italy, even purportedly John the Baptist's forearm and skull!! It was all very interesting, if not a bit wierd for a non-liturgical Christian like me!!
Altogether, Istanbul is a brilliant city and I would highly recommend it!!
Barry isn't posting on this one - he's finishing the packing as we have to head to the train station shortly. We are using multi-mode transport for the next two days - taxi to the ferry, ferry to the train station, train to Adana (arriving tomorrow morning), coach (bus) to Anatakya, and shared taxi over the border to Aleppo in Syria. It's somewhat epic, but we're together so we'll be fine!
We made Istanbul a few days ago and have been having a fantastic time here! We drove the car in and were only to happy to relinquish it after 6 days of insane Turkish drivers. The road into Istanbul and in Istanbul was the worst!!!
We're in a great little pensıon (hotel) in Sutanamhet, which is the very old part of Istanbul. Also the most touristy, but we try to avoid that as much as we can. We went to the covered bazaar (market) yesterday, apparently the largest in the world. It was so much fun chatting and haggling with the traders. It quite regulated so they can't get to aggressive! Then we headed to Topkapı Palace, the headquarters of the Ottoman Empire, via the backstreets, which was a fascinating peek into Istanbul culture.
Topkapi was fabulous! Very large and sprawling, it sort of reminded me of Hampton Court Palace in England, only more 'eastern'. I went into the harem (there was an additional charge so Barry didn't come in), which was very cool, and we wandered around for 2 hours. They had a number of Muslim relics there, just like the Catholic churches in Italy, even purportedly John the Baptist's forearm and skull!! It was all very interesting, if not a bit wierd for a non-liturgical Christian like me!!
Altogether, Istanbul is a brilliant city and I would highly recommend it!!
Barry isn't posting on this one - he's finishing the packing as we have to head to the train station shortly. We are using multi-mode transport for the next two days - taxi to the ferry, ferry to the train station, train to Adana (arriving tomorrow morning), coach (bus) to Anatakya, and shared taxi over the border to Aleppo in Syria. It's somewhat epic, but we're together so we'll be fine!
Monday, 15 September 2008
Backcountry Turkey
Barry:
Today we went from Kütahya to Akcakoca on the Black Sea. We stopped at a market in an ancient town on the way and saw cabbages bigger than a man's head! We had supper at a wonderful seafood restaurant right on the water and watched the lightning on the water.
And it really is the back country, we travelled through villages that you would not believe how Turkey thinks it is ready to enter the EU! Don't get me wrong, the country is very beautiful and the people are so friendly but the EU would spoil it beyond belief.
We went to the ruins at Ephesus, a one and a half kilometer walk through the most amzing Byzantine/Roman ruins. When we reached the end there was a large hose running, making a cascade of water about 8 feet hıgh; after standing under this for a few minutes I was soaked but when we had walked back the one and a half kilometers I was bone dry.
In Katahaya, the home of hot springs and travertines, there was even a hot spring bath in the hotel room, we made good use of it as the journeys between locations has been long and very hot. But tonight on the Black Sea coast in the town of Akcakoca there is a storm of epic proportions that we have been told will last tonight and the weather will be fine tomorrow.
Christine:
Barry's last comment about the storm was prophetic - the power just went off and I thought I'd have to finish this tomorrow!! But it came back on after a few minutes, so here I am!
For those of you actually following our progress, here's the update. We left Ayvalik and headed inland a bit to Bergama, on a lovely road through a national park. In Bergama, be
sides a lot of Turkish carpet shops, there was the ruins of Pergamon, a huge ancient city about the same time period as Ephesus. We wandered around the ruins there and then went to a weaver's co-op where we learned about making carpets and the different types. Of course, they wanted to sell us a carpet, but we decided that should wait until we actually have an income before we start buying things like that!! We went on to stay at a hotel on the road to Selçuk (I can't remember the name of the town, it was very forgettable!), which is the closest town to Ephesus. The next morning we went on to Ephesus and Barry has updated you on that. We will post some more photos when we have more time. But, suffice it to say, it was fabulous! I loved seeing where so many events in the Bible took place!
sides a lot of Turkish carpet shops, there was the ruins of Pergamon, a huge ancient city about the same time period as Ephesus. We wandered around the ruins there and then went to a weaver's co-op where we learned about making carpets and the different types. Of course, they wanted to sell us a carpet, but we decided that should wait until we actually have an income before we start buying things like that!! We went on to stay at a hotel on the road to Selçuk (I can't remember the name of the town, it was very forgettable!), which is the closest town to Ephesus. The next morning we went on to Ephesus and Barry has updated you on that. We will post some more photos when we have more time. But, suffice it to say, it was fabulous! I loved seeing where so many events in the Bible took place!From there, we drove to Katahaya, which has hot springs, although its neighbour, Pamukkle, is more famous for them as it also has some ancient ruins there. Katahaya was so lovely because it wasn't as used to foreign tourists as Pamukkle, it's where the Turkish tourists come instead of Pamukkle. The people were lovely and so friendly and the town was quite pretty.
After that, we went to Kütahya, which has been known for its ceramics since Ottoman times. Its a lovely city and we found a great hotel right on the city center square. We arrived fairly early so it gave us some downtime to nap and chill. Sleep has been difficult at times with everyone being up a good part of the night due to Ramadan (the Muslims fast all day and eat after sundown and before sunup and the call to prayer rings out at least once every night, followed by some fellow with a big drum wakıng everyone up so they can make sure to eat before sunrıse!).
Today we went from Kütahya to Akcakoca on the Black Sea. We stopped at a market in an ancient town on the way and saw cabbages bigger than a man's head! We had supper at a wonderful seafood restaurant right on the water and watched the lightning on the water.We are having a fantastic trip. Turkey is a wonderful country and we fully plan to come back someday to get to Capadoccıa and visit my friends in Ankara. The traffic is crazy, the country is curiously undeveloped in some ways, but so great in so many others.
Friday, 12 September 2008
Reality Bites!!!
Christine:
We are currently in a lovely little town called Ayvalik, on the western coast of Turkey. The people of this country are so friendly and helpful, its been great! We had breakfast at our hotel, the Kaptan Otel, on the seafront terrace. Breakfast was light, consisting of olives and cheese and veggies and bread with jam.
We have had to abandon our plan of going east to Cappadoccia. The distance is greater than I thought, the roads aren't fabulous and there are a lot of lorries, and the price of fuel is higher than the UK! We would just have to spend the next two days drivıng, whıch isn't much fun for either of especially Barry!
So far we've managed to stay out of the tourist areas and its been pleasant and 'real', but tomorrow we head to Ephesus, which apparently is tourist central, so it will be a bit mad. We've seen some lovely small villages along the way and some gorgeous scenery. The food has been lovely so far as well, and everyone unfailing friendly and helpful. The weather is hot and sunny - a far cry from the rain and cold we left in London! It cools down nicely at night, though. It is Ramadan over here, which means that the country comes alive at night. Everything is open and people are out walking around and eating and drinking until the wee hours. It's a great atmosphere and lots of fun!
Barry aka Driverboy:
I have become an evil Mad Max character, brought about by the insane Turkish drivers. After just 10 mintes, I learned never to indicate or give any sign that I was about to make any maneouver as this is just seen as a sign of weakness to be preyed upon!
But when they are not behind the wheel, the Turkish are lovely people, who will serve you a cup of coffee consisting of what they would normally tarmac the roads with. The scenery is good, sea is good, everything is good.
We are currently in a lovely little town called Ayvalik, on the western coast of Turkey. The people of this country are so friendly and helpful, its been great! We had breakfast at our hotel, the Kaptan Otel, on the seafront terrace. Breakfast was light, consisting of olives and cheese and veggies and bread with jam.
We have had to abandon our plan of going east to Cappadoccia. The distance is greater than I thought, the roads aren't fabulous and there are a lot of lorries, and the price of fuel is higher than the UK! We would just have to spend the next two days drivıng, whıch isn't much fun for either of especially Barry!
So far we've managed to stay out of the tourist areas and its been pleasant and 'real', but tomorrow we head to Ephesus, which apparently is tourist central, so it will be a bit mad. We've seen some lovely small villages along the way and some gorgeous scenery. The food has been lovely so far as well, and everyone unfailing friendly and helpful. The weather is hot and sunny - a far cry from the rain and cold we left in London! It cools down nicely at night, though. It is Ramadan over here, which means that the country comes alive at night. Everything is open and people are out walking around and eating and drinking until the wee hours. It's a great atmosphere and lots of fun!
Barry aka Driverboy:
I have become an evil Mad Max character, brought about by the insane Turkish drivers. After just 10 mintes, I learned never to indicate or give any sign that I was about to make any maneouver as this is just seen as a sign of weakness to be preyed upon!
But when they are not behind the wheel, the Turkish are lovely people, who will serve you a cup of coffee consisting of what they would normally tarmac the roads with. The scenery is good, sea is good, everything is good.
Monday, 8 September 2008
The adventure begins....
So, as you know if you've made it here, Barry and I taking the long way on our move to Canada. Several people have asked that we keep everyone updated on our progress and the easiest way to do this is to blog. I will try to blog as often as possible, but be patient with us! Hopefully you will get both of us posting so you'll get a balanced view of our trip. We'll see how it goes.
Christine:
It's Monday night and we leave on Wednesday morning. We're pretty much all packed up and our backpacks are ready to go. We're just finishing up the last few bits of things and running errands. It's been stressful and emotional, but we're powering through it, sustained by our sense of humour, our love for each other, and our excitement at the new home and career ahead of us!
Barry:
Arse, bugger, feck! I'm sick to death of packing! Any volunteers to complete our packing, please come over to us at Uxbridge at the speed of a lightly greased weasel. I'm so tired that I am now beginning to behave like a normal human being. I'm also very sad from the last week of saying goodbye to friends and family, but we hope to see everybody soon. We're looking forward to getting to Alberta where there is a strong chance that my gills and webbed feet will disappear! I shall become a normal land animal again, instead of English fishboy!
Christine:
It's Monday night and we leave on Wednesday morning. We're pretty much all packed up and our backpacks are ready to go. We're just finishing up the last few bits of things and running errands. It's been stressful and emotional, but we're powering through it, sustained by our sense of humour, our love for each other, and our excitement at the new home and career ahead of us!
Barry:
Arse, bugger, feck! I'm sick to death of packing! Any volunteers to complete our packing, please come over to us at Uxbridge at the speed of a lightly greased weasel. I'm so tired that I am now beginning to behave like a normal human being. I'm also very sad from the last week of saying goodbye to friends and family, but we hope to see everybody soon. We're looking forward to getting to Alberta where there is a strong chance that my gills and webbed feet will disappear! I shall become a normal land animal again, instead of English fishboy!
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